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General Finishes Pro Image Topcoat or Pro Shield Topcoat can be applied directly to the stain without a sealer. In cases of species like White Oak top coats can pull tannin from the wood leaving an undesirable color affect. Many closed grain woods such as maple, walnut, and cherry may only require one seal coat and two finish coats. Most open grain woods such as the oaks and ash will need two seal coats to increase the build of the finish and improve the final result. If in doubt, put down a coat of sealer.

It's Woodworking Wednesday!

Wow! Look at this great butcher block by Ultimate DIY Guy!

A steam mop won't damage the finish film but it will force moisture into the wood between the boards or into any open scratched areas on the surface of the board. This could cause a delamination of the finish from the wood or damage to the wood itself. We recommend a commerical floor cleaner such as Bona floor cleaning system.

Enduro Clear Poly is a high-performing commercial-grade water-based topcoat fortified with polyurethane that delivers a tough, durable and abrasion-resistant finish. Clear Poly can be used on any project where more solids (28%) and durability are desired.

Arm-R-Seal Topcoats are made with the highest-quality urethane resin, making them extremely durable and long-lasting. These oil-based finishes are formulated to be wiped on with a cloth or applied with a foam brush, and they penetrate to provide deep-down protection for that "natural" look.

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The opacity of a paint is the ability to "hide" the surface underneath.

Paints that have more hiding capacity are made with a "white" base which contains a larger combination of calcium carbonate and titanium dioxide. The calcium carbonate acts as a spacer to spread out the titanium dioxide, the most common ingredient used in paints to increase "hiding" properties.

There is more than one method but none offer a guarantee of success. The first involves solvents and the others are less harsh. Nothing adheres well to wax, and even after cleaning the wood grain can become contaminated. Wax can penetrate the wood, making future paint or stain finishes or touch-ups difficult or impossible. Sanding down the finish can drive the wax even deeper because the friction of sanding heats up the wax. Even with the techniques listed below, the risk of a failure in re-coating over a wax finish is very high.

Most likely not. There is a saying in the finishing industry, "Once you wax, you cannot go back". Nothing adheres well to wax, and once you use it the surface can become contaminated, making future paint or stain finishes or touch ups difficult or impossible. Even though there is internet chatter about removing wax with 3rd party products or mineral spirits, the risk of a failure in re-coating over a wax finish is very high. Your best bet is to strip and sand, but even that is problematic.

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