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This response is true of prepping and existing finish on furniture, but kitchen cabinets are more problematic because they are work areas where grease, steam, food splatters and oil from hands are common. Prep is basically degreasing and abrading the surface for better adhesion. Oil or substances on hands really show up on a failed re-finish around doorknobs and hands if the surface is not cleaned thoroughly.

There are no guarantees with silicone - it is almost impossible to remove. If the silicone has migrated into the wood through cracks in the old finish, you may not be able to get it all removed.

Unfortunately, silicone contaminants, often from dusting sprays, do not become apparent until a new finish is applied and generally cannot be removed from the surface, only moved around and possibly sealed - a bane of the refinishing industry.

You need to power clean the existing finish and put on some type of barrier coat:

Even though there is internet chatter about removing wax with 3rd party products, mineral spirits or vinegar, none guarantee success.

There is an old saying in the industry. "Once you wax, you cannot go back". Nothing adheres well to wax and even after cleaning, the wood grain can become contaminated. Wax can penetrate the wood, making future paint or stain finishes or touch-ups difficult or impossible.

You can clean your project with ammonia only if you will be working with an oil based finish. Ammonia can cause a water based finish to blush or turn white. If using a water based finish, a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water is best.

Note: Avoid using oil-soap or silcone-based daily cleaners such as Pledge, Endust or Murphy's Oil. These types of products can contaminate your finish, preventing further applications of paints or topcoats in the future.  

If your current finish is chipping, it is failing to adhere correctly. The adhesion problem could be caused by several reasons:

"Cure time" is the amount of time needed for the finish on a piece to reach maximum hardness and be ready for normal use. This is different than "dry time." 

Water-based finishes cure faster than oil-based finishes, approximately 21 days vs 30 days under ideal conditions (70°F and 50% humidity).

After your finish has cured, the best way to clean is with a water-damp rag. If your surface requires deep cleaning due to grease or grime build-up, add a speck of a strong dish detergent, such as Dawn or a bit of vinegar to your damp rag.

If need deeper cleaning, use General Finishes Orange Oil Polish.