Satin Finishing Wax

Satin Finishing Wax is a special blend of waxes designed to give oil-finished woods a rich luster. It can be used as a polish for rubbing out new finishes or as a scratch-remover for worn surfaces. It works well over both oil- and water-based finishes, including Danish Oil. We recommend a wet-sanding process followed by buffing to a soft silky sheen.

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General Finishes Satin Finishing Wax, 16 oz Bottle

Instructions

How To Apply General Finishes Satin Wax

General Finishes Satin Wax Application Steps

Light Polishing:

  1. Shake container well.
  2. Wipe on a thin, even coat with a clean cloth.
  3. Let sit 10 minutes.
  4. Polish with a soft cloth, wiping away the excess in the direction of the wood grain.

Buffing A Topcoat To A High Gloss:

  1. Shake container well.
  2. Wipe on a thin, even coat with a clean cloth.
  3. Let sit 1-2 minutes.
  4. Buff off excess with a buffing or sanding pad (see below) in the direction of the wood grain. The higher/finer grit you use, the easier it will be to achieve a high-gloss finish.
  5. Buffing Tools:
    1. Norton Abrasives, Yellow Block
      • 1000-grit, 1500-grit, 2000-grit
      • Creates a high-gloss finish
    2. Klingspor Fusion Pads
      • 2800- to 3500-grit
      • Ideal for painted and gloss finishes
    3. Klingspor Superfine Sanding Pad
      • 220-grit
      • General purpose option for rubbing out topcoats and paints with a flat or satin sheen
    4. Merka Mirlon Pads
      • Total 1500 (gray)
      • Total 2500 (gold)
      • Ideal for oil-based finishes or between coats of paint

Fixing A Scratch:

  1. Shake container well.
  2. Do not sand "dry-on-dry" to remove scratch marks.
  3. Add Satin Wax as a lubricant on the pad AND on the surface of your project, then spread smooth with a rag.
  4. Let sit 10 minutes.
  5. Polish with a soft cloth, wiping away the excess in the direction of the wood grain.

Storage of Maintenance Products

Life of Product
Maintenance products are best used within 1 year of the manufacture date listed on the bottom of the can. The following best practice will increase the life of your product:

Store in moderate temperatures. Avoid temperatures above 80°F/26°C. Heat-damaged product cannot be revitalized. Temperature-controlled spaces, such as a basement, are ideal for storage. Do not store product in an attic, garage, in direct sunlight, or next appliances with heat or flame such as a furnace.

Warnings and Warranties

Compatibility: Do not use water-based products with Linseed Oils or Danish Oils.

Limited Warranty
General Finishes products must be tested to your complete satisfaction before using. General Finishes will not be responsible for color satisfaction, misapplication, nor compatibility with other manufacturers' products. General Finishes will be responsible only for the cost of our products, and not for costs such as labor, damage or project replacement. 

Contamination and Compatibility
Our finishes are engineered as a system and are compatible with each other. General Finishes cannot guarantee an ideal refinish when applying our products on top of or combined with another company's products or over surfaces that have been in contact with waxes, polishes or sprays containing contaminants such as silicone. Test for adherence and aesthetics before beginning. 

Danger: Contents are COMBUSTIBLE. Keep away from heat and open flame. Application materials or other waste soaked with this product may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in a sealed, water-filled, metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.

CAUTION: Contains ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS. VAPOR HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG-TERM OVEREXPOSURE. Contains solvents which can cause permanent brain and nervous system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating & inhaling the contents can be harmful or fatal.

Warning
If you scrape, sand, or remove old paint, you may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC. EXPOSURE TO LEAD DUST CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS, SUCH AS BRAIN DAMAGE, ESPECIALLY IN CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD ALSO AVOID EXPOSURE. Wear a NIOSH-approved respirator to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log onto www.epa.gov/lead.

Do not swallow; first aid: drink water to dilute product. May cause eye and skin irritation; first aid: flush eyes thoroughly with water.

FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large amounts of water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. For skin contact, wash thoroughly with soap and water. In case of respiratory difficulty, provide fresh air and call physician. If swallowed, do not induce vomiting. Get medical attention immediately. 

Warning
This product contains a chemical known to the State Of California to cause cancer and birth defects. Do not swallow; first aid: drink water to dilute product. May cause eye or skin irritation; first aid: flush eyes thoroughly with water.

Specifications

Basic Features
Product Colors Clear
Ambering No
Interior or Exterior Interior
Type Accent Wax
Application
Application Method Wipe On with Clean Rag
Usable over existing finishes Yes
Sprayable No
Contents
Can Sizes 16 oz. bottles
Technical Data
VOC 645.446 g/L

FAQs

Satin Finishing Wax FAQs

*How Should I Clean My Finished Project?

After your finish has cured, the best way to clean is with a water-damp rag. If your surface requires deep cleaning due to grease or grime build-up, add a speck of detergent or a bit of vinegar to your damp rag.

If need deeper cleaning, use General Finishes Orange Oil Polish.

Avoid using oil-soap or silicone-based daily cleaners or dusting sprays These products and the chemicals in other cleaners can contaminate your finish, preventing adhesion of future finishes. 

NOTE: Do not clean furniture until the finish has cured completely. 

Cure Time Guidelines: 

  • Water Based Finishes: 21 days
  • Oil Based Finishes: 30 days 

 

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*How Do I Remove Wax from an Existing Finish?*

There is more than one way to remove wax from an existing finish, but none guarantee success. Nothing adheres well to wax and even after cleaning, the wood grain can become contaminated. Wax can penetrate the wood, making future paint or stain finishes or touch-ups difficult or impossible. Sanding down the finish can drive the wax even deeper because the friction of sanding heats up the wax.

Techniques on how to remove wax are listed below. However, the risk of a failure in recoating over a wax finish is high.

  1. Scrub with a solvent, such as mineral spirits, to break the wax barrier. Follow with several applications of Acetone applied with gray scotch bright pads to scrub the surface.
  2. Mix a solution of equal parts white vinegar and water. Dampen a soft, lint-free cotton cloth with the solution and wipe the surface of the table to break down and remove the wax buildup. Follow the grain of the wood with each stroke. Replace the cloth with a new one as the wax buildup transfers to the cloth to prevent it from being redeposited onto the table. Dry the surface with a clean, dry lint-free cloth after wiping it down to prevent moisture from damaging and staining the wood.
  3. Mix a solution of 1 cup of white vinegar and 1 tablespoon of cream of tartar to make a natural abrasive cleaner. Dampen a soft cotton cloth with the solution and gently wipe the wax off in the direction of the wood grain. Rinse the surface by lightly dampening a cloth in plain water and wiping the surface of the wood. Then, wipe dry with a clean dry cloth.

After cleaning, test your new finish to ensure adhesion.

NEVER guarantee a finish applied over wax. Here is a suggestion for your contracts:

We cannot warrant finishes over an existing piece of furniture. If products containing silicone (such as dusting sprays), oil soaps or waxes have been previously used on the piece, they may contaminate a new finish and prevent adhesion. In these situations, it is best to strip and sand the entire piece. Occasionally, a previous wax finish or silicone may be impossible to completely remove.

________ (Initials) I acknowledge that this piece has never been waxed/polished with a silicone-based dusting spray or cleaned with oil soaps. 

________ (Initial) I have no knowledge of previous cleaning products used but realize they may have been applied by previous owners.

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*Which Is Better as a Sealer? Topcoat or Wax?

It depends on whether you are looking for aesthetics or durability.

A topcoat will provide greater durability and protection than wax finishes over time.

While wax finishes are lovely, they typically show wear (fingerprints) and are not permanent, requiring semi-annual to annual maintenance.

Wax is a low durability finish. It’s fine for a decorative piece that will receive light traffic. It is absolutely not strong enough for tables, kitchen cabinets, or other surfaces that will see frequent use.  

Wax takes a bit of elbow grease to apply.

Furthermore, nothing adheres well to wax, which can impact future finish changes. Even though there is internet chatter about removing wax with 3rd party products or mineral spirits, the risk of a failure in re-coating over a wax finish is very high and sometimes impossible.

If you love a wax finish, try General Finishes Satin Finishing Wax. If you want the look and feel of wax with more durability, use our General Finishes Flat Out Flat Topcoat. For even more protection, use General Finishes High Performance Topcoat.

 

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Can Gel Stain be sealed with wax instead of top coat?

Wax can be used over Gel Stain, if you prefer. Just let the Gel Stain dry 24-48 hours before applying the wax. Note: wax is not a durable product. It needs yearly reapplication, will show daily use (finger marks and smudges) and may be very difficult to remove if a future topcoat application is desired.

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Can Glaze Effects be sealed with wax instead of top coat?

Yes, you can use Satin Wax instead of top coat if you prefer. Although GF loves the look of wax, we recommend using top coat because wax is not as durable. Wax requires annual maintenance and it must be removed if you want to apply topcoat in the future.

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Can Satin Finishing Wax be tinted?

You can tint with any of General Finishes Oil-based Gel Stains or Liquid Oil Based stains to create a dark wax.

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How do I buff out High Performance water based topcoat to a high gloss?

There are several techniques by Jeff Jewitt of Homestead Finishing Products:

Dry buff with Mirka Royal Micro Paper

Using Mirka Royal Micro sandpaper, always start with 1500 grit sandpaper. Begin with a small area, make 2-3 passes, then evaluate results. Go to a heavier grit if surface irregularities are not fully removed. Finish with 1500 grit paper.

Dry/wet buff with Abralon Polishing Discs

Start by dry sanding with Abralon 2000 then 4000. Start slowly, monitor to see if buildup is occurring. A large sized table might take 5-25 sheets of paper.  If needed, lubricate by moistening with GF Satin Wax, mineral spirits, or naphtha. Never use water as a lubicant. If lubricated, one sheet of 1000 or 1500 should do the entire table.

Buffing/Polishing with Presta

You can use Presta's polishing kits.
Spray Presta polish on buffing pad stuff to lubricate the pad. Apply a quarter sized dab of polish to sand one section. Spread with pad. Continue section by section. Mist buffing pad with Presta lubricating material when it gets too dry. You should be able to use a buffing pad on 10-20 tables before washing and reusing.
 
When done, mist entire surface with and buff with a micro-cloth to remove splatter

NOTE: Never wet sand a water-based finish.

 

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Should I Use Satin Wax to Seal My Kitchen Cabinets?

You can...we do we do believe that wax can be a beautiful addition to many projects. However, it is best not to use wax in high-use temperature-dependent situations like kitchens or bathrooms. Furthermore, kitchen cabinets require long-term protection and high-quality resistance to wear. Wax provides far less protection and durability than an engineered resin based top coat like High Performance or any of our professional Enduro Spray finishes. A particular problem are range hoods and dishwasher panels - wax cannot stand up to the heat and may melt and run.

Wax finishes typically show wear (ex: fingerprints) and require semi-annual to annual maintenance. Furthermore, touch-ups or changes are impossible once wax has been added to the surface because no finish will adhere well to wax. Even though there is internet chatter about removing wax with 3rd party products or mineral spirits, the risk of a failure in re-coating over a wax finish is very high. Resin-based topcoaats can be removed or covered with a new finish without a problem if you ever decide to touch-up or refinish your cabinets in the future.

 

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