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A coat of Shellac may help to remove tobacco smell from furniture. If that doesn't work try this:

We all know that steam spots can come as the result of hosting holiday celebrations! But how does GF recommend dealing with the mark?

There are no guarantees with silicone - it is almost impossible to remove. If the silicone has migrated into the wood through cracks in the old finish, you may not be able to get it all removed.

Unfortunately, silicone contaminants, often from dusting sprays, do not become apparent until a new finish is applied and generally cannot be removed from the surface, only moved around and possibly sealed - a bane of the refinishing industry.

You need to power clean the existing finish and put on some type of barrier coat:

There are several reasons:

1. The cabinets were not prep cleaned and sanded properly. Sanding and cleaning are an essential part of any refinishing process.

In most cases, you can use a 220 sanding pad to scuff the surface and clean with a 50|50 mix of water and denatured alcohol.

Never guarantee a finish on this era of furniture. Inform your customers of this issue and steer customers away from using light colors. Many mahogany pieces from the late 1920's to early 1930's have an aniline dye lacquer finish which can bleed through no matter how many times you paint or prime over it. Although ideal coverage over an aniline dye lacquer can never be guaranteed, the following two products have been known to minimize bleed through:

ANSWER: Many mahogany pieces from the late 1920s to early 1930s have an aniline dye lacquer finish which can bleed through no matter how many times you paint or prime over it.

Our recommendation to fix white cabinets that have yellowed is to do a thorough sanding and precleaning and recoat with the following products:

Even though there is internet chatter about removing wax with 3rd party products, mineral spirits or vinegar, none guarantee success.

There is an old saying in the industry. "Once you wax, you cannot go back". Nothing adheres well to wax and even after cleaning, the wood grain can become contaminated. Wax can penetrate the wood, making future paint or stain finishes or touch-ups difficult or impossible.

John Mosconi of Sting King Lutherie in Akron, Ohio takes us on his journey of refinishing this mandola.

Step 1: Prep and Sealing

This response is true of prepping and existing finish on furniture, but kitchen cabinets are more problematic because they are work areas where grease, steam, food splatters and oil from hands are common. Prep is basically degreasing and abrading the surface for better adhesion. Oil or substances on hands really show up on a failed re-finish around doorknobs and hands if the surface is not cleaned thoroughly.