Flat Out Flat

If the finish feels cool to the touch, it's not ready. When you can sand it to a dry powder, it is ready for the next coat. Dry times will be longer if it is raining, cold, or humid. When in doubt, waiting longer is always better.

It depends on whether you are looking for aesthetics or durability.

A topcoat will provide greater durability and protection than wax finishes over time.

While wax finishes are lovely, they typically show wear (fingerprints) and are not permanent, requiring semi-annual to annual maintenance.

Wax is a low durability finish. It’s fine for a decorative piece that will receive light traffic. It is absolutely not strong enough for tables, kitchen cabinets, or other surfaces that will see frequent use.

Wax takes a bit of elbow grease to apply.

Furthermore, nothing adheres well to wax, which can impact future finish changes. Even though there is internet chatter about removing wax with 3rd party products or mineral spirits, the risk of a failure in re-coating over a wax finish is very high and sometimes impossible.

If you love a wax finish, try General Finishes Satin Finishing Wax. If you want the look and feel of wax with more durability, use our General Finishes Flat Out Flat Topcoat. For even more protection, use General Finishes High Performance Topcoat.

Flat Out Flat is a matte water based topcoat with a velvety feel and was developed as a durable alternative to our Satin Wax.

Choose this product if you want a finish that looks more like wax and your project will not require high use. Like wax, it dries softer to the touch than High Performance when completely cured, and it will show more marring and fingerprints. Flat Out Flat is made with a stable self cross-linking acrylic instead of urethane.

High Performance is urethane based and contains less matting agents which result in a slightly harder finish.

For that reason, High Performance is the best choice for high use areas such as table tops and kitchen cabinets. Both topcoats have similar water resistance, but High Performance offers greater clarity. To achieve the matte aesthetic without sacrificing durability or clarity, try High Performance Dead Flat.

Use with Oil Based Finishes: Let oil-based finishes dry for 72 hours before applying High Performance or Flat Out Flat top coat.

If you want to change the sheen, you can re-coat with a different sheen over top. The second layer of top coat will replace the appearance of the first.

Sand lightly with a used 220 sanding PAD to knock down the original finish before re-coating. It may take two or 3 coats to get complete coverage.

All bright white paint will yellow slightly with time, even without topcoat. You have probably tried to touch up white woodwork in your home after several years and noticed that the new paint is brighter.

But white and light paints can react if clear coated with a waterbased finish; water-based topcoats are reactive and may draw out substances in the wood such as tannins, dyes or unknown substances in existing finishes causing the topcoat to yellow. This is an industry-wide issue and can happen right away, years later or never.

There is no way to reliably predict yellowing ahead of time. Every existing finish is different and we rarely know the finishing provenance on a previously finished piece. Every tree is different; every piece of wood is unique. Wood can bleed tannins immediately after the topcoat dries or months later with a change in temperature that comes with a change in seasons. Oak, pine, mahogany, and Douglas Fir are particularly prone to bleed-through.

Throughout all of our testing, General Finishes water-based topcoats are clear drying over a non-reactive substrate such as plastic or metal but when applied to something as unpredictable as wood, it is best to play it safe.

To reduce the occurrence of yellowing, we formulated Stain Blocker, a chemical stain and tannin blocking primer, and Brushable White Enamel. But the safest route is no use of topcoat over whites and light paint. As all of our white pigmented paints are self-sealing and do not require a topcoat, we warn users as follows:

CAUTION: Do NOT use any water-based clear coat over bright whites such as GF Snow White Milk Paint, or GF White Poly as it may cause yellowing. Lighter-colored paints may alter slightly with a topcoat application, but the color shift is less noticeable. Any clear coat can become reactive over wood substrates or existing finishes, causing tannin or dye bleed-though regardless of priming. All of GF's white paints do NOT require a topcoat.

TIPS FOR PROTECTING YOURSELF AND PREVENTING YELLOWING

1. Don't apply any clear coat when using light or white paints. Topcoat is perfectly fine over darker colors.
2. Always prime white paint with a paint system: Gf recommends either 2 coats of Stain Blocker or White Undercoat.
   • Over raw wood: Apply two coats of Stain Blocker or Enduro White Undercoat, then 1-2 coats of Brushable White Enamel, White Poly (spray only), or Milk Paint.
   • Over an existing finish: Apply two coats of Stain Blocker, then 1-2 coats of Brushable White Enamel, White Poly (spray only), or Milk Paint. Always let any primer dry overnight. Many primers suggest a 3-hour dry time and that is not enough.
3. We offer three types of self-sealing pigmented paint.
   • Milk Paint: A clear topcoat is not required on our Milk Paint for increased durability. It is a self-sealing, exterior rated coating with very high-performance properties. However, higher sheen topcoats provide a smoother surface that is easier to clean for high use projects such as tabletops and kitchen cabinets. Topcoat is fine for darker colors, but not for light or white Milk Paint. In those cases, use Brushable White Enamel (available in Satin or Semigloss) or spray our pigmented White Poly (available in Flat Satin or Semigloss.)
   • Enduro White Poly: Use a professional sprayable "white coat" such as our professional Enduro White Poly. It is a white paint with "increased topcoat properties", is a stand-alone finish when 3 coats are applied and does not require sealing with a topcoat.
   • Brushable White Enamel was developed as a stand-alone finish for those who want a bright white but do not use spray equipment.
4. Use disclaimers in your contracts. Upcharge for the extra coats needed and never guarantee a white finish over a piece when the customer wants a topcoat. Here is a suggestion for your contracts: 
   
   Terms of Agreement and Warranties: ________ (Initials) I have been informed that more coats are required when painting with bright whites, reds, greens or yellows. I understand that white paint can yellow over time and water-based topcoats can react with the substrate or existing finish under white paints causing yellowing, even if a stain-blocking primer is used. I have been informed that topcoat over white or light paints should NOT be used.
5. Always test your project's ENTIRE finishing schedule (from cleaning to topcoat) on an inside door or a more hidden area of the piece. This does not help if the yellowing occurs later but you will at least know if there is an immediate problem.
6. If you are working on period pieces such as a 1940's serpentine mahogany desk which were often finished in stain containing aniline dyes that cast a pinkish bleed-through under light paint, stay away from light colors. Not every piece of furniture is suitable for up-cycling with a light paint color. Pine, Mahogany, and furniture of the 1940's and 50's are a red flag.
7. Last, not all manufacturer's topcoats are compatible with other finishes and may react with a color change. Always follow best practices by not rushing, and testing to your satisfaction first.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT WHITE PAINT:

• Bright white paints can yellow over time with or without topcoat. It is the nature of oxidation.
• The underlying finish or wood species can affect the final color of light paint.
• Details and inside corners are difficult to cover with any paint color, but this property tends to be more noticeable with whites. This is a naturally occurring phenomenon in paint application and does not necessarily constitute a defect in the paint finish or your technique.
• The more porous the paint (chalk paint vs an acrylic paint), the more likely that yellowing will occur. The topcoat is actually seeping through the spaces caused by the larger particles of filler that give chalk style paints their texture.
• Whites have a lower “hide” quality and are more transparent than other colors. Most bright whites require additional coats to achieve the desired color and minimize color variation. This can increase the cost of paint finishing. Always include a clause in your contracts addressing the need for additional coats to achieve coverage.

IF YOU ARE A PAINTING PROFESSIONAL, DO NOT CARRY THE COST OF WHITE PAINT YOURSELF

Include the cost of the increased labor for applying white paints with a fair, reasonable up-charge. White paints, even if they did not yellow, require more coats and high-quality primers to achieve coverage. See our video How to Achieve a Bright White Finish that Lasts for more information.

If your white cabinets have yellowed, we recommend prep cleaning and scuff sanding, applying a coat of General Finishes Stain Blocker primer, finish sand and re-coat with another coat of paint.

Watch "How to Get a Bright White Finish" to learn more.

No, you should not mix Flat Out Flat and High Performance topcoats. They are engineered with different resin systems.

You can mix High Performance topcoats to adjust sheen. For example, you can mix HP Flat and HP gloss to obtain a different sheen.

Toning is the process of adding colorant, either dye or pigmented stain into a top coat and then applying over an entire piece in order to subtly deepen the color. All of our stains can be used: Stock base colors of RTM, Water-Based Wood Stains or Dye stains. If you are new to toning, we recommend starting with Dyes stains, which can be easier to use as they only contain dyes and no pigments. 

All of General Finishes water-based topcoats with the exception of Conversion Vanish can be tinted to create lightly colored finishes for toning.  It is YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO TEST to your satisfaction before application to your entire project. 

• https://gf.video/How-To-Darken-Cabinets-By-Toning-Water-Based

There are limits anytime you add pigments or dyes to water-based topcoats. Toning should always be done in small increments to achieve the desired color. If you are starting with a light honey tone door and you want to create an Espresso color this will take multiple coats of color including base coat of stain followed by several toning coats. It is impossible to achieve a radical color change with just 1 coat of toner.

A good rule to follow when toning is starting with a minimal amount of stain or dye, 5-10% by volume. Some colors work better than others. Normally 1-2 ounces or stain per quart of clear topcoat is sufficient to create a toner. Always test color first and strain material through a fine mesh filter to remove any undissolved particle of pigment. Once you have achieved the desired color tone apply a clear topcoat to lock in the color. Toner made with water based wood stain should be used at point of use only. Do not store for extended periods of time. 

The popular flat sheens are lovely but they have different attributes than glossy finishes. The flatting agents required to reduce sheen in flat or matte topcoats also slightly reduce clarity, water resistance, durability and resistance to chemicals such as ketchup, soap, chemical cleaners, or ammonia. This is not much of a concern in low use areas but is important for table tops or kitchen cabinets.

Here is a tip to improve the performance of your finish and still obtain a matte sheen: Use a semi-gloss sheen for the first two coats and a flat for the third for optimum performance.

General Finishes is constantly seeking new resins and additives to improve the performance of our finishes.

General Finishes water-based products can be sprayed through compressed air, HVLP, airless or C.A.S. units.

DOWNLOAD SPRAY TIP CHART PDF 

SURFACE PREPARATION:

All surfaces should be clean and free from dirt and oil and sanded.

Indicated below are instructional videos we have for preparing a surface for a new coat of paint or finish:

• Prep sand raw wood.
• Prep sand an existing finish.
• Power prep an existing high-use finish such as kitchen cabinets.

SPRAY APPLICATION OF GENERAL FINISHES WATER-BASED FINISHES:

All General Finishes water-based topcoats and wood stains are ready to spray from the container without additives with the exception of Conversion Varnish. Always strain material through a medium to fine mesh filter before spraying. If necessary, in hot or dry climates, reduce 10 to 15% with General Finishes Extender to extend the open time.

PRE SEALING:

Softwoods such as Pine absorb stain at an uneven rate and may respond better to staining if the wood is pre-sealed. General Finishes Pre-Stain Conditioner Natural can be applied to raw wood to condition the surface for uniform penetration of the stain. Pre-sealing will cause the final stain to be lighter so you may need to use a darker color. Always test your color on a hidden part of the furniture. Allow the Pre-Stain Conditioner to dry 30 minutes before applying your final stain color.

If you are using a sprayer that has been used for oil-based or lacquers, clean the unit thoroughly with acetone followed with hot water to purge the fluid passage. Apply a thin coat first that will dry and harden faster. Sand this first coat down to a smooth base on which to build your finish coats with a 220-320 grade foam sanding pad or #400-grit sandpaper. It is better to spray 2 thin coats rather than 1 heavy coat.

Contact your supplier to verify proper tip sizes for your specific equipment. GF's general recommended fluid tips for Wood Stains and Top Coats are Compressed air - .040 and Airless - .009.

DOWNLOAD SPRAY TIP CHART PDF

This PDF lists general guidelines for several different types of sprayers with specific General Finishes product recommendations for HVLP listed below.

RECOMMENDED TIPS FOR GENERAL FINISHES PRODUCTS USING HVLP:

• Milk Paint: 1.8mm-2.0mm
• Brushable White Enamel 1.8mm-2.0mm
• Stain Blocker: 1.8mm-2.0mm
• Pearl Effects: 1.8mm-2.0mm
• Glaze Effects: 1.8mm-2.0mm
• High-Performance Topcoat: 1.1mm-1.3mm
• Flat Out Flat Top Coat: 1.1mm-1.3mm
• Enduro-Var 1.1mm-1.3mm
• Water-Based Wood Stain: 1.1mm-1.3mm
• Water-Based Dye Stain: 1.1mm-1.3mm
• Exterior 450 Topcoat:1.1mm-1.3mm
• Exterior 450 Stain: 1.1mm-1.3mm
• Enduro Sanding Sealer: 1.3-1.4mm
• Enduro White Poly: 1.3mm-1.5mm
• Enduro Black Poly: 1.3mm-1.5mm
• Enduro White Under Coat 1.5mm-1.8mm
• Enduro Clear Poly: 1.1mm-1.3mm
• Enduro Pre Cat Lacquer: 1.1mm-1.3mm
• Enduro Conversion Varnish: 1.1mm-1.3mm

Air caps should be medium size. Contact your supplier to verify proper tip sizes for your specific equipment.

Break your work into sections such as dresser top or drawer fronts. Spraying too large of an area can result in a textured grainy surface. A correctly sprayed finish should appear even and glossy. It is important to spray enough material to allow proper flow and leveling of the finish.

Spray medium wet films at 3-5 wet ml thickness. Practice makes perfect. If you have never sprayed finishes before, take a large piece of cardboard and practice your technique first. Spray water on the cardboard to learn how the gun works. Check your fluid settings and adjust the controls to get comfortable with the spray angles and to develop your technique.

SPRAYING TOPCOATS:

Keep your gun at a 90* angle, 6-8" from the surface. On large flat areas, use wet, even patterns 6 to 8 wide. For narrow surfaces, reduce the fan pattern to 2-3" to reduce overspray. For topcoats, overlap each pass 25% to conceal lines.

Watch our video how to spray water-based topcoats here.

SPRAYING WATER BASED WOOD STAINS:

Keep your gun at a 90* angle, 6-8" from the surface. On large flat areas, use wet, even patterns 6 to 8 wide. For narrow surfaces, reduce the fan pattern to 2-3" to reduce overspray. Overlap each pass of stain 50% for even coverage and wipe back the excess with an absorbent cloth. For narrow surfaces, reduce the fan pattern to 2-3" to reduce overspray.

SPRAYING WATER BASED DYE STAINS:

Keep your gun at a 90* angle, 6-8" from the surface. On large flat areas, use wet, even patterns 6 to 8 wide. For narrow surfaces, reduce the fan pattern to 2-3" to reduce overspray. Overlap each pass of stain 50% for even coverage. If coverage is even, there is no need to wipe. If you have issues with uneven coverage, wipe back the excess with an absorbent cloth. For narrow surfaces, reduce the fan pattern to 2-3" to reduce overspray.

Flat Out Flat is safe to recoat with proper cleaning and scuff sanding.

General Finishes does not use a wax such as parafiin, carnauba or PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) that cause adhesion failures in the finish Flat Out Flat.

We do use a very small amount of a different wax (part of the secret sauce) and it is used to improve matting, abrasion and mar resistance.

Hazing or a cloudy appearance can occur when applying a super matte finish over dark colors. In the paint industry, we call this DOI – Distortion of Image. The waxes that give Flat Out Flat its soft feel and the additional matting agents in the formula do not allow light waves to completely refract outward when used over dark colors. Plus, dark colors naturally absorb more light. DOI does occur over light colors, you just can’t see it. Best practice is to always test your finishing schedule before completing the entire project to make sure it meets YOUR satisfaction. The amount of haze on your final project is a personal preference. For example, Flat Out Flat over Lamp Black produces a beautiful dialed-back black, if that’s the look you’re wanting to achieve. 

The increased matting agents used to create the flat look of Flat Out Flat cause it to have less clarity, show fingerprints more and provide slightly less durability than High Performance. It is recommended for low-use projects other than kitchen cabinets and tabletops. For successful use, be sure to thoroughly stir the topcoat before and during use to reincorporate any solids that have settled on the bottom of the can. No more than 3 coats of Flat Out Flat is recommended. More coats will not boost durability. If excessive coats are applied, you increase the chances of your finish getting cloudy due to the high amount of flatting agents contained in Flat Out Flat that are necessary to decrease the sheen. 

If you’ve applied Flat Out Flat and are not happy with the look, you can sand it back very lightly with a 220 foam sanding pad and re-coat with a higher sheen finish. Be sure to not be too aggressive when sanding back. Flat Out Flat will come off fairly easily compared to a higher sheen finish. 

Note: GF has tested Flat Out Flat against other brands of matte topcoats  and it performed with the least hazing. There is always a tradeoff when you are seeking specific properties in a finish

General Finishes offers water, oil, and maintenance finishes that meet the needs of homeowners, woodworkers, and DIY’ers. Comprehensive videos are available for each product on YouTube, plus dynamic comparison charts at GeneralFinishes.com/COMPARE.

All General Finishes water-based finishes are:

• VOC compliant in all 50 states
• Water cleanup 
• Low odor
• Non-flammable

INTERIOR PRIMERS

Water Based Stain Blocker is:

• An epoxy acrylic formulation.
• Prevents tannin bleed-through & discoloration.
• Has high build with excellent adhesion properties.
• Apply with a brush, roller, or sprayer.

WATER-BASED TOPCOATS & PIGMENTED FINISHES

High Performance Water-Based Topcoat is:

• An Interior polyurethane/acrylic blend.
• Clear drying.
• highly resistant to water and household chemicals.
• Apply with a brush or sprayer.

Flat Out Flat Water-Based Topcoat is:

• An interior acrylic formulation.
• Clear drying.
• provides an extremely flat finish with high durability.
• Apply with a brush or sprayer.

Enduro-Var II Water-Based Topcoat is:

• An interior oil-modified water-based urethane.
• Dries to a light, amber tone.
• Made with over 50% renewable resources.
• Apply with a brush or sprayer.

Water-Based Milk Paint is:

• A premium interior and exterior-rated acrylic formulation.
• Self-sealing and does not require topcoat.
• Is made with over 50% renewable resources.
• Is available in 12 popular colors, plus two tint bases.
• Apply with a brush, roller, or sprayer.

Water-Based Glaze Effects is:

• An interior oxidating acrylic formula.
• Available in 6 colors, including a Clear Base.
• Is a decorative specialty finish.
• Can be intermixed to create custom colors.
• It requires a topcoat
• Apply with a brush, roller, or sprayer

Pro Image Water-Based Flooring Topcoat is:

• An interior polyurethane.
• Clear drying.
• Levels to a smooth, hard, durable finish.
• Provides excellent slip and black heel mark resistance.
• Apply with a brush, roller, or pad applicator.

INTERIOR WATER-BASED STAINS

Water-Based Wood Stain is:

• Made with over 50% renewable resources.
• It’s available in 18 deep brilliant colors.
• And provides universal coverage on many wood species.
• Apply with a brush or sprayer.

Water-Based Pre-Stain Conditioner is:

• Used to control blotching on hard-to-stain woods.
• And to reduce Water Based Wood Stains.
• Apply with a brush or sprayer.

Water-Based Dye Stain is:

• A penetrating stain with ink-like consistency.
• It is available in 14 vibrant colors.
• And can be used as a toner.
• Apply with a brush or sprayer or wiping on.

Water-Based Dye Stain Reducer is:

• The clear base used to reduce Dye Stain colors.

WATER & OIL EXTERIOR FINISHES

Exterior 450 Clear Water-Based Topcoat is:

• A polyurethane formulation.
• Tintable to dark colors.
• Contains UV absorbers & Mildewcides to protect the finish.
• Clear drying.
• Apply with a brush or sprayer.

 450 White Water-Based Topcoat is: 

• A pigmented polyurethane formulation.
• Is tintable to light and pastel colors.
• Contains UV absorbers & mildewcides to protect the finish.
• Apply with a brush, roller, or sprayer.

Exterior 450 Water-Based Stain is:

• Made with over 50% renewable resources.
• Available in 10 colors, including a clear base.
• Contains U.V. absorbers & mildewcides to protect the finish.
• Apply with a brush or sprayer.

Water-Based Milk Paint is:

• A premium Interior and exterior-rated acrylic formulation.
• Self-sealing and does not require topcoat.
• Made with over 50% renewable resources.
• Available in 12 popular colors, plus two tint bases.
• Apply with a brush, roller or sprayer.

Outdoor Oil is:

• A penetrating oil wood preservative.
• Contains UV absorbers and mildewcides to protect the finish.
• This finish will amber as it ages.
• A maintenance product. Reapply when wear becomes evident.
• Apply with a brush, roller or sprayer.

INTERIOR OIL STAINS & AMBERING TOPCOATS

Gel Satin Oil-Based Topcoat is:

• A heavy-bodied, no-drip oil and urethane formula.
• Designed to provide a hand-rubbed look.
• Will amber as it ages.
• Apply with a brush or wipe on.

Gel Oil-Based Stain is:

• A heavy-bodied, no-drip formula.
• Available in 14 deep, rich, uniform colors.
• Apply with a brush, roller, or wipe on.

 Arm-R-Seal Oil-Based Topcoat is:

• A penetrating sealer with a high-quality urethane formulation.
• It provides long-lasting, durable protection.
• and works beautifully on projects with detail.
• This finish will amber as it ages
• Apply with a brush or wipe on.

Liquid Oil-Based Wood Stain is:

• a traditional, pigmented liquid wiping stain
• Available in 14 colors
• Can be used as a toner with Arm-R-Seal
• Apply with a brush or wipe on.

Oil-Based Pre-Stain Conditioner is:

• Designed to control blotching on hard-to-stain woods.
• And penetrates the grain to promote uniform acceptance of oil stains.
• Apply with a brush or wipe on.

Oil-Based Seal-A-Cell Clear is:

• Formulated with a blend of oils, urethanes, and wax.
• Is GF’s deepest penetrating close-to-the-wood sealer.
• And the best choice for highlighting figured wood.
• Apply with a brush or wipe on.

Hard Wax Oil is:

• A urethane-solids polymer in a blend of oil & wax.
• Enhances the natural look of wood.
• One of our easiest finishes to use.
• It’s best used with optional GF Hardener to shorten dry time and provide superior durability.
• This is a maintenance product. Reapply when wear becomes evident.
• Apply with a white pad or plastic spreader.

 Oil Based Wood Bowl Finish is:

• A pure urethane formulation.
• Highlights figured wood beautifully
• Apply with a brush or wipe on.

INTERIOR MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS

Butcher Block Oil is:

• A mineral oil formulation.
• Meets all requirements for use on wooden surfaces that come in contact with food.
• This is a maintenance product. Reapply when wear becomes evident.
• Apply with a cloth.

Orange Oil is:

• A routine cleaner for cured wood finishes
• Non-combustible with a fresh orange scent
• Apply with a cloth

Satin Finishing Wax is:

• A blend of waxes.
• Produces a soft sheen and feel over any wood finish.
• Can be used as a polish for rubbing out new finishes OR as a scratch-remover.
• Apply with a cloth.

No matter what your project is, General Finishes has the right product for you. General Finishes is dedicated to using the highest-quality ingredients in all our products, while testing and advancing our water-based finishes with leading-edge technology.

Learn more about GF’s products at Generalfinishes.com. 

General Finishes: We make tomorrow's finishes today.